Restoring a Pre-war Riley Special

Sunshine on the Riley

At last the weather has turned!  The sun shone for a while today and I was able to get the Riley out onto the drive and clean it off. … Also clean the garage up and get the tools back into their correct boxes, draws & cupboards.

 

In the last few days I have been able to satisfy myself that the hardboard body patterns are as I want them, and start to cut out the bulkheads in 1″ marine ply and place them onto the bed timbers.  The bed timbers follow the contours of the chassis with just enough curvature to ensure the body will not look too “slab sided”. … I now have:- A firewall behind the engine that is stainless steel covered.  A bulkhead that will be where the rear of the bonnet rests, and a further bulkhead that will carry the dashboard. …. I have taken lines through these to ensure that the bonnet line continues through to the dash bulkhead in a straight line. ….. There is nothing worse than a bonnet on one line, and then the scuttle tilting up or down at a different angle!

 

Next I will cut and fit bulkheads at the rear of the seats and a rearmost one to fit the slab-tank to. … I will then be cutting ash timbers to connect these bulkheads and form a complete framework ready for aluminium skinning.

Preparing the MG for the season

As well as trying to keep the Riley restoration moving I`ve been getting prepared for using my standard MG Midget 1500 in the MG Car Club Luffield speed championship. … This is a series of sprints & hillclimbs open to MG`s of all ages in various classes.  Standard, roadgoing modified, fully modified, etc.  My MG will compete in the standard car class, up to 1500cc, and be driven to and from events. … The events I intend doing are: Loton Park hillclimb, Curborough sprint, Anglesey sprint, Aintree sprint, Shelsley Walsh hillclimb, Wiscomb Park hillclimb, Harewood hillclimb, Castle Combe sprint.

 

The Midget is taxed & MOT`d and getting occassional use in these winter months. It will see much more use as the spring arrives. … It is running very well, with mildly tuned suspension & running gear but the engine is a little rattly on start-up and I doubt if it will stand up to competition use. …. As a result, I`m building a better engine ready to go in soon.

 

The engine in the 1500 midget does not have a good reputation amongst the MG fraternity!  The same engine was fitted to later Triumph Spitfires. …. The regulations for the Luffield standard class allow very few modifications. (No gas-flowing, standard camshaft, standard valve size, etc, etc).  So not much can be done to improve performance/BHP however, plenty can be done to improve reliability! … The two “must do” mods to help the engine stay in one piece are to fit an oil cooler and to baffle the sump.  Keeping the oil temperature down helps with oil pressure, and fitting baffles in the sump prevents the oil surging away from the oil pump pick-up pipe resulting in momentary loss of lubrication on right hand bends.  (Did you know that all uk motor racing circuits run clockwise direction? .. Lots of right handers!).

 

Today I have made a baffle plate in aluminium plate and fitted it to the sump/oil pan.  I took the design from a well known tuning book and it is apparently tried & tested. … I have had to drill the sump to fix it into place.  I have used a system of fibre washers and bolts with nyloc nuts, to ensure no oil can leak.  I will monitor it to make sure it has worked! … If I had used a steel plate I could have spot welded it into place and not needed to drill holes.  If I have oil leakage I will weld a plate into a spare sump I have.

The other things that fall within the regs are, fit a tuned, 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust manifold and a good, well set-up, pair of HS4 SU carbs, and good air filters.  This should ensure much improved air-flow through the engine and improved power.  Remove & blank off the mechanical fuel pump and fit a electric type.  Use a cylinder head that gives a 9.5 :1 compression ratio, (some heads were 7.5 :1 compression).

 

There are a few other little mods/adjustments that fall within the rules. I will touch on these later.

Getting back to the Riley, (and the MG Midget!)

I havn`t been completely inactive over the winter & christmas period, but havn`t done any significant pieces of work that inspired me to “blog”. … I have found myself wandering into the garage, (it is attached to the side of the house), and doing little jobs for an hour or so occassionally.

 

The one thing I have started to do is visualise/plan/experiment with bodywork ideas.  I have decided that the project based on a Riley 9 chassis with 12/4 engine should be an “all rounder”.  Capable of being used on the road, for trials, rallies & speed events.  I want to avoid it being very low with short wheel base, like a racer.  I have, therefore, started to “mock-up” a body with space behind the seats for luggage, tools, etc, with a slab tank and a rear mouted spare wheel. … I have found a nice slab tank that appears to fit the bill.  However, I think I may need to move a chassis cross member forward so that the space between the back of the seats, (luggage space), is reduced and the spare wheel will be inside the rearmost chassis member rather than overhanging the rear of the chassis. … Everything inside the chassis frame should make for a far more “compact car” with better handling.  A second spare wheel could be added so that there is more weight at the back for trialling.

 

My choice for body frame material is timber. … A series of bulkheads in high quality marine ply, with ash timbers connecting them in the traditional way. … The front bulkhead forms a firewall between engine and driver/passanger compartment, so must be aluminium covered.  This will carry fuel pump, fuse box, cut-out, etc.  The next bulkhead is where the rear of the bonnet sits, and then a bulkhead that will carry/support the dashboard. … A bulkhead forming the seat backs comes next, followed by a bulkhead that the slab tank sits against. … My pictures show some of these bulkheads cut from thin hardboard for patterns.  Sitting these on the chassis allows me to get a picture of how the frame will look, and to take some “lines” through to get the shape before cutting the expensive marine ply.

 

I have now got as far as cutting two of the bulkheads, and cutting “bed timbers” for them to mount on. … I havn`t yet decided wether to have a doorless body, (skimpy, light & strong), or have small doors ala MG TC, HRG, etc.

Winter strikes. Work stops!

Progress has stalled on the Riley specials for the moment.  We have had Christmas and New year festivities to contend with, and the weather has turned very nasty.  … We currently have temperatures of 6 degrees below freezing, snow and ice.  … Its so cold in the garage I can see my breath.

I`ve managed a few little jobs. .. Reconditioned the brake actuating parts on the Merlin back axle being prepared for the Sprite chassis.  These are similar to the wheel cylinders you would find on a more modern car with hydraulic drum brakes.  The difference being the Riley ones are mechanically operated by rods.  … Reconning these was a matter of completely dismantling, cleaning all parts, greasing all moving parts and ensuring clearances were within reasonable tolerance, and that they operated as they should. Smoothly and without excessive play.  … In fact the whole axle has now been cleaned, checked, painted, etc, etc.  (Checking the differential and ensuring the right amount of backlash, checking half shafts, oil seals, etc, deserves more of a “write-up”, but mebe later).

Anyway, while I`m at a point of slow progress with the Rileys, I thought I would tell you about my motorsport plans for the 2010 season. (Rileys won`t be finished). …. I`m planning another season of hillclimbs and sprints in the MG Car Club, Luffield Speed Champonship.  A great series of events offering the opportunity to compete at such venues as Prescott Hillclimb, Aintree sprint, Silverstone sprint, Harewood Hillclimb, Shelsley Walsh, Curborough Sprint, Loton Park Hillclimb, and many more great venues. …. I will be competing in the Standard car class in a MG Midget 1500, (rubber bumper model).

Now, Midget 1500`s are not a particularly sought after model by classic MG enthusiasts, but to my mind are a decent basis for a MG roadgoing competition car. … Consider this: They tend to be much cheaper than the more sought after chrome bumper 1275cc cars. In standard trim they out-performed the chrome bumper cars, (top speed 102mph against the 96mph CB cars, and acceleratedfaster to 60mph).  … If you remove the huge metal girders that are lurking behind the rubber bumpers, power to weight ratio improves dramatically!  Lower and stiffen the ride height in line with the earlier CB cars, add a 4 branch exhaust manifold, decent air filters, tune the twin su`s with decent jets and needles and you have a lively car that is within rules and regs for the standard car class. …. A lively competition car that can be used on the road in the summer months. … I try not to be too snobbish about vintage and classic cars.  The MG Midget is a very humble car compared to the Rileys.  …. But there is really no comparison, (they were built 40 years apart!).  The Midget is great fun for little money!

There are a few other mods needed to satisfy scrutineers for competition.  Fitting a fire exstinguisher, making sure the bulkhead between engine and driver is fireproof, (no holes, etc), roll bar, tow eyes, etc. But nothing difficult, and mainly sensible safety mods you would want even for general road use.

Anyway, from time to time I may put articles about the midget on this blog just to get away from the Rileys for a change!

Back to the beginning

When I first bought these Riley projects and spare parts, and collected them from the barn in Somerset, (see my first blog entries), I forgot to take a camera with me. … In order to capture a flavour of the event I took a few photo`s on my mobile phone. I then found that I didn`t have the lead that connects the phone to my computer and couldn`t download the pics! Anyway, I sent them to my daughters phone, she downloaded them and emailed them to me. (Thanks Caz).

While I`m mentioning my daughter, I should also mention my son Stephen. .. He constructed this site for me and explained to me how to use it. (No mean feat considering my total lack of understanding and skills with computers, cameras, phones, etc). … Anyway, he is very good at designing and constructing sites like this, (and bigger and more complex sites of course). … Have a look at his blog titled Tokyo story at www.stephendavidsmith.net

So here are the pictures that should have accompanied my early blog enrties.

Back axle musing

I wrote earlier about having a wide track back axle for the narrow track chassis, (the Sprite-like, modified chassis). … Well, this last few weeks I`ve been thinking about back axles and what I can use that will fit this chassis and “do the job”.

…. I`m sure I have heard somewhere that early MGB banjo type back axles will fit. The wire wheel variants have a 42mm splined hub that will take the pre war Riley 18″ wire wheels. This axle also has the advantage of having various diff ratio`s available. On the downside, it has hydraulic brakes, where the pre war cars have a mechanical system. Also, I`m not sure how this plays with VSCC eligibility.

I also remembered that I had seen a late Riley 9, (Merlin), back axle amongst the rusty pile in the corner of my lock up garage. There is every chance that it may fit.

I noticed in the latest issue of the MG Owners club mag a banjo type MGB back axle casing, (no diff, hubs, brakes, etc), going cheap. So I bought it just to try it on the chassis to see if it matched up with the rear spring locating points. … AND IT DOES!

I also dug out the rather rusty Merlin axle, AND IT ALSO FITS!! …. SO, do I get the parts to complete the MGB axle and use that. Which will mean converting the car to hydraulic brakes, with all the subsequent work involved in that. … Or do I fit the Riley Merlin axle. Which will mean staying with all pre war parts and a mechanical braking system. (I havn`t got brake drums for this axle, but I`m sure I can locate home). … I probably prefer the pre war merlin axle option, but will ponder a little longer before making up my mind. I will be returning to this subject at a later date. … Whichever option I choose, it will lead to other complications with the torque tube/prop shaft. (Who said “whats a torque tube”?). … Another subject for a future blog!!

Taking stock of progress

Every so often whe restoring an old car it is necessary to take a step back, review whats been done, and plan the next phase. I have now reached the stage where all of the obvious and relatively easy work is done. …Stripping, cleaning, painting & reassembling. General assembling and getting the major components into place.
Now for a bit of problem solving! What to do about a waterpump for the Riley 9 chassis with 12/4 engine & gearbox. The engine has no pump fitted. A standard 12/4 type pump is very expensive, (several hundred pounds), and it takes a lot of room at the front of the engine and makes it difficult to fit the radiator as far back in the chassis as I would like. …. I`ve heard about a Ford pump that can be fitted at the side of the engine and belt driven from the pulley on the timing cover, (driven by the exhaust camshaft). … I`m going to investigate this and will put my findings in a later blog entry.
I also need to find a back axle for the other, (Sprite like chassis), now that I know the wide track axle I have won`t fit the narrow track chassis. (I found a cheap post war RMA axle and bought it on spec, but it is far to wide in the track so I won`t be using it).
I have spent about a week sorting out a set of wheels & tyres for the Riley 9 chassis project. … There was a set of wheels with this car, but they had suffered through poor storage. They had been respoked, tensioned & trued, but had areas of surface rust & chipped paint, etc. …. I have spent a week checking, cleaning, de-rusting. I have removed tyres & tubes. Re-enamelled the wheels and refitted tyres with new tubes, and fitted the wheels to the rolling chassis. … This project is now sitting on good wheels which will enable me to start planning coachwork. … I just need to flatten the rear springs a little. They have the chassis sitting a little high now that the heavy saloon body that it once carried has gone, but that will be included in a later blog.

A tale of front axles

Todays job was to fit the rebuilt front axle to the Modified, (Sprite-like), chassis. … Ben was going to work on the passenger side whilst I worked on the drivers side. This would give Ben an understanding of the way the front suspension and steering gear worked and bolted together. … The axle we were to fit was one that I had rebuilt, (here`s one I made earlier!), for a Kestrel chassis I had before I bought the collection of parts from Somerset.
I should have known, (I did know but had forgotten!), that Riley 12/4`s come in two different widths. Wide track and narrow track. There is about 2 inches difference in the distance across the wheels. … The width of the car. (The track). …. I`m sure you`ve guessed by now that the axle we wanted to fit was wide track, and the chassis is narrow track. … It don`t fit!!
After a few moments of panic and swearing, (mostly Ben, I don`t swear), I searched through my other bits and pieces and found a narrow track axle! … Worn out king pins and no hubs, bearings, brake parts, etc, etc.
So now we have a new plan. … Knock the worn out king pins out, take the stub axles off, clean and paint the axle beam and fit it to the chassis. Remove all of the good/new parts from the rebuilt axle and fit them to the narrow track axle, in situ, on the chassis. …… We removed the king pins together. … Getting the cotter pins that hold the king pin in the axle eye was fairly straightforward, but the blowlamp on the axle eye was needed before the king pins could be shifted. … Anyway, they are out now and Ben has cleaned , de-rusted, and painted the axle beam and it is ready to be fitted tomorrow. … I`m tempted to tell the story of working together to drive the king pins out of the axle eye with a lump hammer and metal drift, “when I nod my head, hit it”, but I won`t. … Pictured are the bare, narrow track axle, and the rebuilt wide track axle.

Project 2

Project 2 is the Riley 12/4 chassis that has been converted to TT Sprite spec.  That means the chassis has been underslung, (passes under the backaxle instead of over), and has the rear chassis members drawn inwards to follow the contour of the TT Sprite style bodywork.  The engine & gearbox mountings have been moved backwards in the chassis so that the radiator will sit above the front axle, and the driving position will be just in front of the back axle.

Now, I have no intention of building a TT Sprite replica. I don`t like the idea of a direct copy that could later be passed off as the genuine article. … I will build a special that looks period, but dosn`t resemble a TT Sprite too closely.

I have examined this chassis closely and I am very happy with the standard of workmanship. The steel used for replacement cross members is good and the welding is first class. …………….. However, the wheelbase of a TT Sprite is 8 foot 2 inches, and I`m pretty sure this is considerably shorter.  I reckon about 7  foot 10`ish.  I will be able to measure accurately when I have front and back axles fitted. … (May be a little too short for my liking).

I have decided to try to advance this project at the same time as building project 1, which has a much more standard set up.  … To this end I have spent today fitting a 12/4 engine and gearbox to the chassis, which has been cleaned, de-rusted and painted black.  ….. When I aquired this chassis it had a dismantled 12/4 competition engine, but many of the components had been allowed to rust, so I am fitting a fairly standard 12/4 engine that I aleady had. … It was rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago, so is in exellent condition.  It is mated to a preselect gearbox that has also only done 10,000 miles since rebuild.  It it has a 2nd type clutch, which most people believe is the best of the three clutch options offered. (When a competition engine is fitted it is planned to dispense with the clutch altogether. Relying on the gearbox brakebands to deliver drive to the back axle).  Something I will explain in greater detail later. ……… The competition engine can be restored & and fitted at a later date.  Perhaps after the car has been run for a season and the “bugs ironed out”.  …. The competition engine has special, lightened and balanced conrods that are much superior to the standard rods, A re-sleeved block and reground crank.  Main bearings have been re-metalled, the special rods accept MGB big end shells, and it has a lightened flywheel.  It also has high compression pistons, (Triumph Boniville pistons that have been rendered unusable by damp storage conditions).  The camshafts have also suffered from rust but may be ok for hardmetal spraying and reprofiling.  It also has a lightened and balanced flywheel.  It will make a powerful competition engine when I get to sort it out!

As you will see from the pictures, the engine in project 1, has no water pump or fan assembly.  Whereas the engine in the Sprite-like chassis has these fittings.  What to do about this is a problem to be dealt with later.  I hope to look at some alternative solutions to avoid fitting the standard Riley parts.  This way I may be able to squeeze the radiator further back on project 1, so that the car looks well balanced in profile. (The further forward the rad, the worse the appearence in profile).

I intend getting the front axle fitted to the Sprite spec chassis soon too. It is rebuilt and ready to fit.  I also intend restoring and fitting the steering column too. … I havn`t decided what to do about back axle and torque tube yet.

Just before finishing this article I must mention the new front shock absorbers now fitted to project 1. … I bought them from Graham Brown, (Croydon).  Expensive, but lovely!!  Have a look at the pics.  Graham specializes in vintage & and classic shockers and carries many types.  A good man and pleasant to deal with.  Very knowledgeable.

 

Good news!

I couldn`t wait any longer. I had to see what was causing the engine to be seized-up. I imagined that the piston rings could be stuck to rusty bores, or valves & valve gear rusted up, or many other horrors. ….. I removed the cylinder head, (undoing head nuts in the correct sequence), with trepidation.  I had sqirted some oil into the plug holes a few days ago to help free up rusted piston rings, without much hope.

I`m delighted to say that the engine was being stopped from turning by a large amount of oil sitting on top of the pistons. Pistons unable to travel up the cylinders because the oil wouldn`t compress, (hydraulic-lock). …. The cylinder bores are perfect. They have been sleeved back to standard and a new set of standard pistons fitted. … The cylinder head has new valves, guides & springs.  It is not a big valve head, but I have a big valve head amongst the spares which may be a performance improvement mod later. …. I havn`t yet had the sump off to look at big end & main bearings but I am convinced that the whole engine is rebuilt from what I have seen so far.

About the Author

Phil Smith is a vintage car enthusiast with many years experience of owning, restoring and using vintage, PVT and classic cars. A longstanding member of The Vintage Sports Car Club (VSCC), The Riley register and The MG Car Club. Makes he has owned include Alvis, Bentley, Lagonda, MG, Talbot and Riley, of course. Now retired, Phil satisfies his 'old motor urges' by competing in the MGCC Luffield Speed series in MG Midgets from the 60's and 70's. This blog will chart his return to vintage/PVT cars.

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E-mail: philsmith432[at]hotmail[dot]com

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