Restoring a Pre-war Riley Special

Sorry for the delay!

I`ve just realized how long it has been since I lasted posted anything about the Riley special. …. I have spent quite a bit of time building a “skeleton” body frame that has the look, lines and proportion that is pleasing to my eye, (I don`t know about anyone elses).  … I have been doing this without detailed drawings and plans, but with a mental picture of what I want.  I have also had to hand various pictures of vintage coachwork that is funcional and of period appearance. … These pictures include a Frazer Nash, MG K3, Singer LeMans, and various Riley specials.  So I guess my bodywork will resemble some or all of these in some small detail!

 

 I hav agonized over whether to have doors or not, full screen or just  aero screens, etc, etc. … My decision is to go for as light, strong and “skimpy” as possible.  I guess a full screen and hood could be added later. ….. My pictures show the bodywork taking shape, (some panels mocked-up in cardboard), and various cords and strings defining the lines through bonnet, scuttle, tank, etc. … It is important to get some curvature into the overall shape, but not too much!

 

The Riley has taken a back seat whilst I have been preparing my competition MG Midget for the coming sprints and hillclimb season. … My next post will be about this preparation and whether any improvement in performance is gained from the very limited mods that are allowed in the standard car class of the MGCC Luffield Speed Champs.

Rear shock absorbers

When I bought the Riley 9, (with12/4 engine), there were no front or rear shockers. … I sorted the front by investing lots of money in a pair of friction type shockers as fitted to most racing/sporting Rileys. They look great and work very well.  However, these expensive friction types are not neccessary at the back.

 

Originally this chassis would have carried large hydraulic, lever arm type shockers. Very big and very heavy.  … It may have been possible to hunt down a pair of these units, and then going through the reconditioning process, but why bother?  …. The MGB, a relatively moder car, has a very primitive rear suspension arrangement with pre war origins. (Cart springs with lever arm hydraulic units, similar to the pre war MG TA).  … These units are available from MG specialists at very reasonable prices and you can even get uprated versions for competition use.  In my view, these are not out of place on a pre war special.

 

As you will see from the pictures, I have fitted a pair of these, (uprated 30%), and I`m confident they will work well in damping down the rear end of my special. .. You will also see from the pictures I have extended the body bed timbers over and beyond the back axle to provide a platform for the slab tank.  Much work laminating timbers and designing/producing bracketry has gone into this arrangement, and I am happy with the result. … The MGB shockers fit nicely between the chassis and petrol tank.  I havn`t yet fitted the link arms that connect the lever arm to a plate bolted to the bottom of the roadspring. This will be done later.

Getting the “donkey work” done

For the past couple of weeks I`ve been doing one of the less enjoyaable jobs, (in my oppinion). … I have cut the bodywork bulkheads from marine ply and arranged them on the bed timbers, making countless small alterations untill the general shape of the body is pleasing to my eye. … The job I refer to is designing and making the various brackets that hold the bulkheads in place, fasten the bed timbers to the chassis, and generally provide the strength and rigidity to the bodyframe.

 

Making brackets involves making up cardboard patterns. With lots of measuring, checking, and altering untill a satisfactory design is achieved.  Then using a cutting wheel in a angle grinder to cut the component parts. And then welding, drilling, dressing-off with a grinding wheel, and finally painting ready for fitting. …. Good, well designed bracket work is an important part of building a special.  Bits of bent metal and the cheap DIY store offerings should be avoided. …. A chapter in Wheatly and Morgan vintage car restoration book covers the subject brilliantly.

 

The collection of brackets I have produced over the last couple of weeks are cut from high quality 2.5mm steel and arc welded as required. … I have paid very little attention to weight saving, (the body will be far lighter than the original anyway), or to calculationg stresses and loads. Prefering to “over engineer” everything so that it is more than equal to what is required!  …. The reason I refer to this as donkey work is: It is hard, time consuming, dirty, smelly work that produces lots of dust and little can be seen of the progress made when all are bolted into place.

 

However, the next phase is cutting timbers to form the shape of the body and connect the bulkheads.  This will be far more enjoyable work and will produce  visual progress for all to see.

MG Midget. … The competition season is looming

Just a quick mention of the MG Midget and the forthcoming hillclimb and sprint season. …. The engine I have been preparing for the competition season is pretty well ready to go into the car. … It has a baffled sump, refurbished oil pump, blanked off fuel pump appeture, (replacing with electric), no fan, (fitting electric), electronic ignition. .. On the pictures you can see the sandwich plate below the oil filter that will enable me to fit the 13 row oil cooler.

 

I also have refurbished HS4 SU carbs and a tuned 4 branch exhaust manifold ready to go on.  … I guess balancing the bottom end and lightening the flywheel would have been worthwhile, but that will have to be the next engine change!!

 

The other contributors towards keeping the engine in good order are:  Using Penrite HPR30, 20/60 engine oil, and keeping to the following rules when driving. … Do not sit with the clutch depressed and the car in gear too long.  Put it into neutral and handbrake on.  (When the clutch is depressed it presses the crankshaft forward, which causes fast wear to the thrust washers that prevent forward movement of the crank.  This can lead to a wrecked engine sooner than is desirable!!).  …. On initial start up, crank the engine with a starter button with the ignition off.  I have fitted a starter button to facilitate this.  (Oil draining from the filter and off the bearing surfaces cause fast bearing wear).

 

I hope I can get the engine change done soon so that I can book a rolling road session to ensure ignition timing is “spot on” and carbs are properly set up. … This will also tell me where maximum power and torque occurs in the rev range, and what bhp is available at the rear wheels. … I`m only expecting about 80bhp, but the car is quite light so power to weight ratio should be about 150bhp per ton. (Based on guesswork, I havn`t calculated it accurately).

 

Sunshine on the Riley

At last the weather has turned!  The sun shone for a while today and I was able to get the Riley out onto the drive and clean it off. … Also clean the garage up and get the tools back into their correct boxes, draws & cupboards.

 

In the last few days I have been able to satisfy myself that the hardboard body patterns are as I want them, and start to cut out the bulkheads in 1″ marine ply and place them onto the bed timbers.  The bed timbers follow the contours of the chassis with just enough curvature to ensure the body will not look too “slab sided”. … I now have:- A firewall behind the engine that is stainless steel covered.  A bulkhead that will be where the rear of the bonnet rests, and a further bulkhead that will carry the dashboard. …. I have taken lines through these to ensure that the bonnet line continues through to the dash bulkhead in a straight line. ….. There is nothing worse than a bonnet on one line, and then the scuttle tilting up or down at a different angle!

 

Next I will cut and fit bulkheads at the rear of the seats and a rearmost one to fit the slab-tank to. … I will then be cutting ash timbers to connect these bulkheads and form a complete framework ready for aluminium skinning.

Preparing the MG for the season

As well as trying to keep the Riley restoration moving I`ve been getting prepared for using my standard MG Midget 1500 in the MG Car Club Luffield speed championship. … This is a series of sprints & hillclimbs open to MG`s of all ages in various classes.  Standard, roadgoing modified, fully modified, etc.  My MG will compete in the standard car class, up to 1500cc, and be driven to and from events. … The events I intend doing are: Loton Park hillclimb, Curborough sprint, Anglesey sprint, Aintree sprint, Shelsley Walsh hillclimb, Wiscomb Park hillclimb, Harewood hillclimb, Castle Combe sprint.

 

The Midget is taxed & MOT`d and getting occassional use in these winter months. It will see much more use as the spring arrives. … It is running very well, with mildly tuned suspension & running gear but the engine is a little rattly on start-up and I doubt if it will stand up to competition use. …. As a result, I`m building a better engine ready to go in soon.

 

The engine in the 1500 midget does not have a good reputation amongst the MG fraternity!  The same engine was fitted to later Triumph Spitfires. …. The regulations for the Luffield standard class allow very few modifications. (No gas-flowing, standard camshaft, standard valve size, etc, etc).  So not much can be done to improve performance/BHP however, plenty can be done to improve reliability! … The two “must do” mods to help the engine stay in one piece are to fit an oil cooler and to baffle the sump.  Keeping the oil temperature down helps with oil pressure, and fitting baffles in the sump prevents the oil surging away from the oil pump pick-up pipe resulting in momentary loss of lubrication on right hand bends.  (Did you know that all uk motor racing circuits run clockwise direction? .. Lots of right handers!).

 

Today I have made a baffle plate in aluminium plate and fitted it to the sump/oil pan.  I took the design from a well known tuning book and it is apparently tried & tested. … I have had to drill the sump to fix it into place.  I have used a system of fibre washers and bolts with nyloc nuts, to ensure no oil can leak.  I will monitor it to make sure it has worked! … If I had used a steel plate I could have spot welded it into place and not needed to drill holes.  If I have oil leakage I will weld a plate into a spare sump I have.

The other things that fall within the regs are, fit a tuned, 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust manifold and a good, well set-up, pair of HS4 SU carbs, and good air filters.  This should ensure much improved air-flow through the engine and improved power.  Remove & blank off the mechanical fuel pump and fit a electric type.  Use a cylinder head that gives a 9.5 :1 compression ratio, (some heads were 7.5 :1 compression).

 

There are a few other little mods/adjustments that fall within the rules. I will touch on these later.

Getting back to the Riley, (and the MG Midget!)

I havn`t been completely inactive over the winter & christmas period, but havn`t done any significant pieces of work that inspired me to “blog”. … I have found myself wandering into the garage, (it is attached to the side of the house), and doing little jobs for an hour or so occassionally.

 

The one thing I have started to do is visualise/plan/experiment with bodywork ideas.  I have decided that the project based on a Riley 9 chassis with 12/4 engine should be an “all rounder”.  Capable of being used on the road, for trials, rallies & speed events.  I want to avoid it being very low with short wheel base, like a racer.  I have, therefore, started to “mock-up” a body with space behind the seats for luggage, tools, etc, with a slab tank and a rear mouted spare wheel. … I have found a nice slab tank that appears to fit the bill.  However, I think I may need to move a chassis cross member forward so that the space between the back of the seats, (luggage space), is reduced and the spare wheel will be inside the rearmost chassis member rather than overhanging the rear of the chassis. … Everything inside the chassis frame should make for a far more “compact car” with better handling.  A second spare wheel could be added so that there is more weight at the back for trialling.

 

My choice for body frame material is timber. … A series of bulkheads in high quality marine ply, with ash timbers connecting them in the traditional way. … The front bulkhead forms a firewall between engine and driver/passanger compartment, so must be aluminium covered.  This will carry fuel pump, fuse box, cut-out, etc.  The next bulkhead is where the rear of the bonnet sits, and then a bulkhead that will carry/support the dashboard. … A bulkhead forming the seat backs comes next, followed by a bulkhead that the slab tank sits against. … My pictures show some of these bulkheads cut from thin hardboard for patterns.  Sitting these on the chassis allows me to get a picture of how the frame will look, and to take some “lines” through to get the shape before cutting the expensive marine ply.

 

I have now got as far as cutting two of the bulkheads, and cutting “bed timbers” for them to mount on. … I havn`t yet decided wether to have a doorless body, (skimpy, light & strong), or have small doors ala MG TC, HRG, etc.

Winter strikes. Work stops!

Progress has stalled on the Riley specials for the moment.  We have had Christmas and New year festivities to contend with, and the weather has turned very nasty.  … We currently have temperatures of 6 degrees below freezing, snow and ice.  … Its so cold in the garage I can see my breath.

I`ve managed a few little jobs. .. Reconditioned the brake actuating parts on the Merlin back axle being prepared for the Sprite chassis.  These are similar to the wheel cylinders you would find on a more modern car with hydraulic drum brakes.  The difference being the Riley ones are mechanically operated by rods.  … Reconning these was a matter of completely dismantling, cleaning all parts, greasing all moving parts and ensuring clearances were within reasonable tolerance, and that they operated as they should. Smoothly and without excessive play.  … In fact the whole axle has now been cleaned, checked, painted, etc, etc.  (Checking the differential and ensuring the right amount of backlash, checking half shafts, oil seals, etc, deserves more of a “write-up”, but mebe later).

Anyway, while I`m at a point of slow progress with the Rileys, I thought I would tell you about my motorsport plans for the 2010 season. (Rileys won`t be finished). …. I`m planning another season of hillclimbs and sprints in the MG Car Club, Luffield Speed Champonship.  A great series of events offering the opportunity to compete at such venues as Prescott Hillclimb, Aintree sprint, Silverstone sprint, Harewood Hillclimb, Shelsley Walsh, Curborough Sprint, Loton Park Hillclimb, and many more great venues. …. I will be competing in the Standard car class in a MG Midget 1500, (rubber bumper model).

Now, Midget 1500`s are not a particularly sought after model by classic MG enthusiasts, but to my mind are a decent basis for a MG roadgoing competition car. … Consider this: They tend to be much cheaper than the more sought after chrome bumper 1275cc cars. In standard trim they out-performed the chrome bumper cars, (top speed 102mph against the 96mph CB cars, and acceleratedfaster to 60mph).  … If you remove the huge metal girders that are lurking behind the rubber bumpers, power to weight ratio improves dramatically!  Lower and stiffen the ride height in line with the earlier CB cars, add a 4 branch exhaust manifold, decent air filters, tune the twin su`s with decent jets and needles and you have a lively car that is within rules and regs for the standard car class. …. A lively competition car that can be used on the road in the summer months. … I try not to be too snobbish about vintage and classic cars.  The MG Midget is a very humble car compared to the Rileys.  …. But there is really no comparison, (they were built 40 years apart!).  The Midget is great fun for little money!

There are a few other mods needed to satisfy scrutineers for competition.  Fitting a fire exstinguisher, making sure the bulkhead between engine and driver is fireproof, (no holes, etc), roll bar, tow eyes, etc. But nothing difficult, and mainly sensible safety mods you would want even for general road use.

Anyway, from time to time I may put articles about the midget on this blog just to get away from the Rileys for a change!

Back to the beginning

When I first bought these Riley projects and spare parts, and collected them from the barn in Somerset, (see my first blog entries), I forgot to take a camera with me. … In order to capture a flavour of the event I took a few photo`s on my mobile phone. I then found that I didn`t have the lead that connects the phone to my computer and couldn`t download the pics! Anyway, I sent them to my daughters phone, she downloaded them and emailed them to me. (Thanks Caz).

While I`m mentioning my daughter, I should also mention my son Stephen. .. He constructed this site for me and explained to me how to use it. (No mean feat considering my total lack of understanding and skills with computers, cameras, phones, etc). … Anyway, he is very good at designing and constructing sites like this, (and bigger and more complex sites of course). … Have a look at his blog titled Tokyo story at www.stephendavidsmith.net

So here are the pictures that should have accompanied my early blog enrties.

Back axle musing

I wrote earlier about having a wide track back axle for the narrow track chassis, (the Sprite-like, modified chassis). … Well, this last few weeks I`ve been thinking about back axles and what I can use that will fit this chassis and “do the job”.

…. I`m sure I have heard somewhere that early MGB banjo type back axles will fit. The wire wheel variants have a 42mm splined hub that will take the pre war Riley 18″ wire wheels. This axle also has the advantage of having various diff ratio`s available. On the downside, it has hydraulic brakes, where the pre war cars have a mechanical system. Also, I`m not sure how this plays with VSCC eligibility.

I also remembered that I had seen a late Riley 9, (Merlin), back axle amongst the rusty pile in the corner of my lock up garage. There is every chance that it may fit.

I noticed in the latest issue of the MG Owners club mag a banjo type MGB back axle casing, (no diff, hubs, brakes, etc), going cheap. So I bought it just to try it on the chassis to see if it matched up with the rear spring locating points. … AND IT DOES!

I also dug out the rather rusty Merlin axle, AND IT ALSO FITS!! …. SO, do I get the parts to complete the MGB axle and use that. Which will mean converting the car to hydraulic brakes, with all the subsequent work involved in that. … Or do I fit the Riley Merlin axle. Which will mean staying with all pre war parts and a mechanical braking system. (I havn`t got brake drums for this axle, but I`m sure I can locate home). … I probably prefer the pre war merlin axle option, but will ponder a little longer before making up my mind. I will be returning to this subject at a later date. … Whichever option I choose, it will lead to other complications with the torque tube/prop shaft. (Who said “whats a torque tube”?). … Another subject for a future blog!!

About the Author

Phil Smith is a vintage car enthusiast with many years experience of owning, restoring and using vintage, PVT and classic cars. A longstanding member of The Vintage Sports Car Club (VSCC), The Riley register and The MG Car Club. Makes he has owned include Alvis, Bentley, Lagonda, MG, Talbot and Riley, of course. Now retired, Phil satisfies his 'old motor urges' by competing in the MGCC Luffield Speed series in MG Midgets from the 60's and 70's. This blog will chart his return to vintage/PVT cars.

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