I have decided to concentrate on project 1, as it is likely to be easiest to make quick progress given that it is reputed to be rebuilt/restored, but left in poor storage. … Ben has started hard, dirty job of cleaning and preparing the chassis for paint. Ben is a perfectionist so the wire brushing, grinding & rust removing is done to a high standard. … While he is doing that I am removing front & rear axles and checking king pins & bushes, shackle pins & bushes, steering joints,etc.

It has soon become evident that the previous restoration has been done well. Good news! … King pins good as new, shackle pins & bushes new, Steering joints good.  On removing brake drums I discover relined brakeshoes, good as new actuators, adjusters, etc.  … I am cleaning, greasing, (where appropriate), renewing castle nuts and fitting new stainless steel split pins, new clevis pins, etc. … Progress is fast. Mostly disassembling, cleaning, fettling & reassembling.  If only all rebuilds were like this!

Something is puzzling me though. … It appears the chassis has been shortened, but only by four & a half inches.  Why shorten a chassis by this small amout?  Why bother?  … Examining the back axle may have provided the answer.  The axle is unmistakenly Riley manufacture, but it isn`t pre war 12/4, I`m sure of that. … I reckon it is a RMA back axle, (Post war), Put in to provide a better ratio for trials, (the previous owner wanted it to be a trials car).  I think the torque tube was too short in the Riley 9 chassis, so the chassis was shortened to link torque tube & gearbox. … In my oppinion it would have been better to move the engine & gearbox mounting backwards to achieve the same result. (Having the added bonus of bringing the radiator further back, but more of this later).

Anyway, now that the chassis work is going so well I`m resolved to finding out why the engine is stuck solid & won`t turn over. … Watch this space.