Midget engine transplant.
In the motor racing fraternity you will often hear someone say, “I dropped a new engine in the other day”, or some similar comment that makes the job sound reasonable and simple. … WELL IT ISN`T!! …. It has taken me the best part of 8 days to complete an engine change in the midget, along with a few other competition mods that will please the scrutineers!
I started by removing all auxillary items that either, attach the engine to the chassis, add weight, or are liable to get damaged as the engine is lifted out. … Starter, alternator, carbs, exhaust, fan, earth lead, throttle cable, choke cable, various wiring connections, distributor, cap, leads, etc, etc. … Then removed radiator and all hoses, plus expansion tank. Drained the oil and water, of course. … I also removed front bumper, grill and various other front end components. (Partly to facilitate fitting an oil cooler while the engine was out). … I had Bens assistance in drawing the engine forward untill clear of the gearbox and lifting out with the use of lifting tackle attached to the steel girder across the roof of my garage. … I dare say that this dosn`t sound too difficult but I have the skinned knuckles to prove otherwise! Anyway, with some grunting, sweating and swearing, the old engine was on the garage floor. …………… Incidently, I decided to leave the gearbox in place because I saw no sense in changing a gearbox I knew to be good, for one that was unproven.
With the engine out I took the opportunity to thoroughly clean the engine bay and waxoil all of those vunerable corners that trap dirt/damp and allow rust to develop. … I also located the best place for the new oil cooler, where it would get good airflow but not impede airflow to the radiator and engine bay. …. I know that dosn`t sound much but it consumed almost 2 full days!
Lifting the new engine in was not particularly arduous, but not simple either. Getting everything at the right angle for the engine and gearbox to marry together was fiddly and time consuming, but eventually they slid into place and bellhousing bolts were fitted, (more knuckle damage, but Bens knuckles this time!). … Just the auxilleries to fit, along with cables to replace, wiring to reconnect, ignition timing to set, etc, etc, etc! .. I won`t go into detail but lots more time consumed and more knuckle damage.
A difficult part of this engine change was fitting the new 4 into 2 into 1 tubular exhaust manifold. This manifold will make a big difference to performance. Perhaps the biggest single improvement of all the changes being made. ….. It appeared at first that the steering column would need removing whilst the manifold was wrestled into place. But after much headscratching I discovered that removing the studs that hold carbs and manifold against the cylinder head allowed the manifold to be slid into place. Replacing the studs and then fitting the nuts washers achieved satisfactory fitment. …. Just the alterations under the car to get the manifold to meet the long exhaust pipe running to the rear of the car left. (About another half day of work!).
An integral part of this engine change was to fit a oil pressure gauge to supplement the dashboard warning light. … Also to add a voltmeter, battery cut-out switch, and a starter button that will allow the engine to be turned without the ignition on. (To circulate oil after periods of standing which allow oil to drain from bearing surfaces resulting in rapid wear on start up). … This along with the baffled sump that will prevent oil surge away from the oilpump pick-up will result in bearings staying good even on an engine driven hard in competition.
At the time of writing the engine is ready for start up, but hasn`t yet got the cooling system in place. … New kevlar competition hoses arriving tomorrow. … I doubt if I will achieve a rolling road set up before the first hillclimb, which is Loton Park in a weeks time. I will set the ignition timing as best I can get it and tune the carbs to the best of my ability and cross my fingers. …… Rolling road set up will be done later.
front bumper and grill removed
Auxillaries gone, its ready to come out
On its way out
Ben cleaning and waxoiling the engine bay.
New engine going in
Yes! .. Its in!
Starting to look as it should
Sorry for the delay!
Skeleto bodyframe with cardboard paterns
I`ve just realized how long it has been since I lasted posted anything about the Riley special. …. I have spent quite a bit of time building a “skeleton” body frame that has the look, lines and proportion that is pleasing to my eye, (I don`t know about anyone elses). … I have been doing this without detailed drawings and plans, but with a mental picture of what I want. I have also had to hand various pictures of vintage coachwork that is funcional and of period appearance. … These pictures include a Frazer Nash, MG K3, Singer LeMans, and various Riley specials. So I guess my bodywork will resemble some or all of these in some small detail!
I hav agonized over whether to have doors or not, full screen or just aero screens, etc, etc. … My decision is to go for as light, strong and “skimpy” as possible. I guess a full screen and hood could be added later. ….. My pictures show the bodywork taking shape, (some panels mocked-up in cardboard), and various cords and strings defining the lines through bonnet, scuttle, tank, etc. … It is important to get some curvature into the overall shape, but not too much!
The Riley has taken a back seat whilst I have been preparing my competition MG Midget for the coming sprints and hillclimb season. … My next post will be about this preparation and whether any improvement in performance is gained from the very limited mods that are allowed in the standard car class of the MGCC Luffield Speed Champs.
Rear shock absorbers
When I bought the Riley 9, (with12/4 engine), there were no front or rear shockers. … I sorted the front by investing lots of money in a pair of friction type shockers as fitted to most racing/sporting Rileys. They look great and work very well. However, these expensive friction types are not neccessary at the back.
Originally this chassis would have carried large hydraulic, lever arm type shockers. Very big and very heavy. … It may have been possible to hunt down a pair of these units, and then going through the reconditioning process, but why bother? …. The MGB, a relatively moder car, has a very primitive rear suspension arrangement with pre war origins. (Cart springs with lever arm hydraulic units, similar to the pre war MG TA). … These units are available from MG specialists at very reasonable prices and you can even get uprated versions for competition use. In my view, these are not out of place on a pre war special.
pre war type shocks from MGB
extended bed timbers and rear shock arrangement
fits neatly between chassis and petrol tank
As you will see from the pictures, I have fitted a pair of these, (uprated 30%), and I`m confident they will work well in damping down the rear end of my special. .. You will also see from the pictures I have extended the body bed timbers over and beyond the back axle to provide a platform for the slab tank. Much work laminating timbers and designing/producing bracketry has gone into this arrangement, and I am happy with the result. … The MGB shockers fit nicely between the chassis and petrol tank. I havn`t yet fitted the link arms that connect the lever arm to a plate bolted to the bottom of the roadspring. This will be done later.
About the Author
Phil Smith is a vintage car enthusiast with many years experience of owning, restoring and using vintage, PVT and classic cars. A longstanding member of The Vintage Sports Car Club (VSCC), The Riley register and The MG Car Club. Makes he has owned include Alvis, Bentley, Lagonda, MG, Talbot and Riley, of course. Now retired, Phil satisfies his 'old motor urges' by competing in the MGCC Luffield Speed series in MG Midgets from the 60's and 70's. This blog will chart his return to vintage/PVT cars.
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E-mail: philsmith432[at]hotmail[dot]com