Restoring a Pre-war Riley Special

Back to the beginning

When I first bought these Riley projects and spare parts, and collected them from the barn in Somerset, (see my first blog entries), I forgot to take a camera with me. … In order to capture a flavour of the event I took a few photo`s on my mobile phone. I then found that I didn`t have the lead that connects the phone to my computer and couldn`t download the pics! Anyway, I sent them to my daughters phone, she downloaded them and emailed them to me. (Thanks Caz).

While I`m mentioning my daughter, I should also mention my son Stephen. .. He constructed this site for me and explained to me how to use it. (No mean feat considering my total lack of understanding and skills with computers, cameras, phones, etc). … Anyway, he is very good at designing and constructing sites like this, (and bigger and more complex sites of course). … Have a look at his blog titled Tokyo story at www.stephendavidsmith.net

So here are the pictures that should have accompanied my early blog enrties.

Back axle musing

I wrote earlier about having a wide track back axle for the narrow track chassis, (the Sprite-like, modified chassis). … Well, this last few weeks I`ve been thinking about back axles and what I can use that will fit this chassis and “do the job”.

…. I`m sure I have heard somewhere that early MGB banjo type back axles will fit. The wire wheel variants have a 42mm splined hub that will take the pre war Riley 18″ wire wheels. This axle also has the advantage of having various diff ratio`s available. On the downside, it has hydraulic brakes, where the pre war cars have a mechanical system. Also, I`m not sure how this plays with VSCC eligibility.

I also remembered that I had seen a late Riley 9, (Merlin), back axle amongst the rusty pile in the corner of my lock up garage. There is every chance that it may fit.

I noticed in the latest issue of the MG Owners club mag a banjo type MGB back axle casing, (no diff, hubs, brakes, etc), going cheap. So I bought it just to try it on the chassis to see if it matched up with the rear spring locating points. … AND IT DOES!

I also dug out the rather rusty Merlin axle, AND IT ALSO FITS!! …. SO, do I get the parts to complete the MGB axle and use that. Which will mean converting the car to hydraulic brakes, with all the subsequent work involved in that. … Or do I fit the Riley Merlin axle. Which will mean staying with all pre war parts and a mechanical braking system. (I havn`t got brake drums for this axle, but I`m sure I can locate home). … I probably prefer the pre war merlin axle option, but will ponder a little longer before making up my mind. I will be returning to this subject at a later date. … Whichever option I choose, it will lead to other complications with the torque tube/prop shaft. (Who said “whats a torque tube”?). … Another subject for a future blog!!

Taking stock of progress

Every so often whe restoring an old car it is necessary to take a step back, review whats been done, and plan the next phase. I have now reached the stage where all of the obvious and relatively easy work is done. …Stripping, cleaning, painting & reassembling. General assembling and getting the major components into place.
Now for a bit of problem solving! What to do about a waterpump for the Riley 9 chassis with 12/4 engine & gearbox. The engine has no pump fitted. A standard 12/4 type pump is very expensive, (several hundred pounds), and it takes a lot of room at the front of the engine and makes it difficult to fit the radiator as far back in the chassis as I would like. …. I`ve heard about a Ford pump that can be fitted at the side of the engine and belt driven from the pulley on the timing cover, (driven by the exhaust camshaft). … I`m going to investigate this and will put my findings in a later blog entry.
I also need to find a back axle for the other, (Sprite like chassis), now that I know the wide track axle I have won`t fit the narrow track chassis. (I found a cheap post war RMA axle and bought it on spec, but it is far to wide in the track so I won`t be using it).
I have spent about a week sorting out a set of wheels & tyres for the Riley 9 chassis project. … There was a set of wheels with this car, but they had suffered through poor storage. They had been respoked, tensioned & trued, but had areas of surface rust & chipped paint, etc. …. I have spent a week checking, cleaning, de-rusting. I have removed tyres & tubes. Re-enamelled the wheels and refitted tyres with new tubes, and fitted the wheels to the rolling chassis. … This project is now sitting on good wheels which will enable me to start planning coachwork. … I just need to flatten the rear springs a little. They have the chassis sitting a little high now that the heavy saloon body that it once carried has gone, but that will be included in a later blog.

A tale of front axles

Todays job was to fit the rebuilt front axle to the Modified, (Sprite-like), chassis. … Ben was going to work on the passenger side whilst I worked on the drivers side. This would give Ben an understanding of the way the front suspension and steering gear worked and bolted together. … The axle we were to fit was one that I had rebuilt, (here`s one I made earlier!), for a Kestrel chassis I had before I bought the collection of parts from Somerset.
I should have known, (I did know but had forgotten!), that Riley 12/4`s come in two different widths. Wide track and narrow track. There is about 2 inches difference in the distance across the wheels. … The width of the car. (The track). …. I`m sure you`ve guessed by now that the axle we wanted to fit was wide track, and the chassis is narrow track. … It don`t fit!!
After a few moments of panic and swearing, (mostly Ben, I don`t swear), I searched through my other bits and pieces and found a narrow track axle! … Worn out king pins and no hubs, bearings, brake parts, etc, etc.
So now we have a new plan. … Knock the worn out king pins out, take the stub axles off, clean and paint the axle beam and fit it to the chassis. Remove all of the good/new parts from the rebuilt axle and fit them to the narrow track axle, in situ, on the chassis. …… We removed the king pins together. … Getting the cotter pins that hold the king pin in the axle eye was fairly straightforward, but the blowlamp on the axle eye was needed before the king pins could be shifted. … Anyway, they are out now and Ben has cleaned , de-rusted, and painted the axle beam and it is ready to be fitted tomorrow. … I`m tempted to tell the story of working together to drive the king pins out of the axle eye with a lump hammer and metal drift, “when I nod my head, hit it”, but I won`t. … Pictured are the bare, narrow track axle, and the rebuilt wide track axle.

About the Author

Phil Smith is a vintage car enthusiast with many years experience of owning, restoring and using vintage, PVT and classic cars. A longstanding member of The Vintage Sports Car Club (VSCC), The Riley register and The MG Car Club. Makes he has owned include Alvis, Bentley, Lagonda, MG, Talbot and Riley, of course. Now retired, Phil satisfies his 'old motor urges' by competing in the MGCC Luffield Speed series in MG Midgets from the 60's and 70's. This blog will chart his return to vintage/PVT cars.

Categories

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