Dosn`t look so good naked.

I`ve taken the aluminium body off the spaceframe chassis, and it is not so pretty underneath.  However, as you will see from the pictures, there is a very well designed and constructed spaceframe chassis underneath.  It is made from square tube, and the welding and general craftsmanship are very good.  I`ve spent a lot of time cleaning and repainting the spaceframe and other components.  It appears that all suspension bushes, brake pipes, brake linings, etc are new.  Just a matter of checking, cleaning, lubricating, etc.

 

 

 

Taking the body off has allowed me to remove the Vauxhall Viva engine and gearbox.  These are now sold to a vauxhall enthusiast, and a 1380cc MG Midget engine and gearbox has been purchased as a replacement.  … In fact I have obtained 2 engines.  One is a very good, used 1275cc, mildly tuned to give about 90bhp, the other a much more highly developed, fully rebuilt 1389cc unit that will give 120 – 130bhp. … I will put the 90bhp engine in whilst testing and tuning all chassis components.  Then switch to the more highly developed engine once the testing period elapses.

 

I have carefully examined the front suspension system, and decided that there is no advantage in switching to MG Midget suspension components.  The 60`s Vauxhall system was used in many specials and kit cars back in the day, and has some advantages over the midget arrangement. … It has fully triangulated top wishbone arms, whilst the midget uses the single arm of the lever arm shock absorbers.  The Vauxhall set-up also carries a telescopic shocker, which I have been able to uprate to adjustable gas units from a mini.

 

Having removed the Vauxhall engine and gearbox I have to consider what to do about clutch operating systems.  The Vauxhall is a cable operated clutch, whereas the Midget is a hydraulic system. … I`m hoping that I can use a midget pedal, master cylinder and slave cylinder, whilst retaining the Vauxhall brake pedal, master cylinder, etc.  … Havn`t got to that job yet, but will post some info when I do.

Why did I do it?

Its been as much as 15 degrees below freezing here, and no heating in the garage, so still not much getting done. … I think I may fit a woodburning stove in the garage before next winter.

 

Anyway, I don`t know why I did it, but I spotted a rather vintage looking hillclimb special for sale, and bought it.  .. I think I must have been seduced by the rather nice looking aluminium body.  I thought  I might use the body on a much modified Riley nine chassis, give it a early Riley nine mag engine, (I`ve got a rebuilt one sitting in my lock up garage), and turn it into a VSCC racer. … However, looking at it now, and knowing how many other projects I`ve got “waiting in the wings”, I was probably a little hasty!  … But there is always plan B.

 

The hillclimb special was reputedly built by an aircraft engineer back in the 60`s or 70`s.  It is based on early 60`s Vauxhall Viva running gear, and has a 1200cc Viva engine and manual gearbox. (Possibly the most unexciting engine ever fittd to a race car!).  … Plan B would be to change to MG Midget running gear, and fit a tuned 1275cc A series engine from a Midget.  After all, the A series Midget engine can be tuned to give 120bhp, and the spaceframe chassis is well constructed and light.  … Using pre 65 Midget parts would mean that it would qualify for pre 65 races, sprints and hillclimbs, and there are many events that include a class for pre 65 sports and racing cars.  … And of course, the parts are more readily available, and the project is much easier.

 

Have a look at the pics and see what you think.  … Suggestions and ideas are very welcome.

 

Getting back in the groove

I have decided to make this blog more wide ranging than originally intended.  I`ve already started including posts about my MG Midget competition cars.  I am about to add a new dimension. … Hands up if you`ve heard of cigar box guitars!  … I guess 1920`s and 30`s music relates well to cars from that period.

 

I have always been interested in blues music.  It probably started with the blues bands that became popular in the early 1960`s.  The Rolling Stones, John Mayals Bluesbreakers, (with Eric Clapton), Jimmy Hendrix, Fleetwood Mac, etc.  … Having messed around playing bits of bottleneck, (slide), guitar for a while now, I was thrilled to see Seasick Steve on TV playing bottleneck on 3 string instruments.  … Looking into his style I soon became aware of a internet site at www.cigarboxnation.com, (check it out), and began learning more about these fascinating instruments.

 

Before long I was making these instruments from material found around my garage, (probably explains why the Riley isn`t progressing so well!). … I`ve abandoned the standard 6 string guitar now, and I`m playing 3 and 4 string, home made cbg`s.  I get a huge buzz from playing music on an instrument I made myself from mainly reclaimed material!

 

The concept is to mimic the American negro slaves of the 1920`s and 30`s in making musical instruments from material to be found lying around, using only hand tools, in a back shed type setting.  Cigar boxes were a commodity to be found around wealthy households in America, just as oil cans were to be found in Africa.  (See the pic of my oil can guitar).  … Playing these instruments by sliding the neck of a wine bottle on the strings produces a “dirty” blues sound reminicent of Delta or mississippi blues.  Put it through a crude amp and you`ve got a Chicago sound.  .. Whats not to like!!

 

A cbg with just one string is a diddly bow.  Thats where Boe Diddly got his name. … My playing is pretty crude and the songs I can play tend to be simple and repetitive.  (I think it was Woody Guthrie that said, “anyone using more than 3 chords is showing off”).  Well, I have little natural talent for playing, and certainly can`t show off!  … My current play list is, “Baby Please Don`t Go”,  “Sittin on Top of the World”,  “You`ve Got to Move”, “Nobodys Fault but Mine”.  I`m working on “Rollin n Tumblin blues”,  and “Smokestack Lightnin” .  … All of these are taught on Keni Lee Burgess tuition CD`s.  Look him up, he`s brilliant.

 

I`ve had great difficulty convincing my freinds cbg`s are cool.  However, I found a picture of Johnny Depp carrying a cbg through an airport somewhere, and they`ve finally stopped laughing!  (See my pics).

Thanks for waiting

Ok, its been ages since I blogged.  Its not because I havn`t done any work on the Riley, just a mixture of laziness, lack of time, broke my digital camera, and lots of other stuff going on in my life.  … I decided to sell the Sprite replica chassis and parts.  I let it go because I have a Riley Monaco languishing in a lock up garage that I want to use as the basis for a Brooklands rep special, and I`m thinking that I will never get to it unless I reduce my collection.  (I also have a shortened 9 chassis, rebuilt mag engine and gearbox, shortened orque tube, and the parts for another special!)

 

 I sold my MG competition car, (turned into a bit of a disaster), and switched to a highly modified 1964 example for next seasons sprins and hillclimbs.  More of this later.

 

Anyway, the Riley special.  I have been working on the braking system, (particularly the handbrake), floorboards, pedal boards, torque tube cover, aluminium panels around the bulkhead firewall, and many other minor jobs. … I havn`t got pictures to post just now, but I`II take some over the next couple of days.

The floorboards have been cut from marine ply and mounted on aluminium brackets and the rebates cut into the bed timbers of the body frame. … This has taken weeks and weeks of making patterns, designing and constructing brackets, etc.  The footboards which are cut around the pedal assembly were particularly complicated and difficult.  They also required aluminium facing as they form part of the firewall between engine bay and cockpit.

 

Whilst making floor boards I decided to complete the rear brake linkages and design a handbrake assembly.  This would be more difficult once the boards were in place.  The handbrake assemblt is from a early MG Midget. … A nicely made handle and rachet assembly, connected by a standard cable to newly designed and constructed brackets on the brake actuating rod to the rear brakes.  (Something else that took weeks!).  … Pictures later.

 

About the 64 MG Midget race car.  As I have said previously, I enjoy the MGCC sprint and Hillclimb series, The Luffield Speed Championship.  .. The MGCC Luffield Speed series goes to Prescott, Shelsley Walsh, Loton Park, Anglesey, Goodwood, Silverstone and many other great venues.   The car I have bought for next year is a ex circuit racer that competed in the Midget Challenge race series.  It is a serious competition car with the followin spec:

 

Engine:   Built by Morspeed

• Bored out to 1380
• MED big valve head
• APR cylinder head studs
• 1.5 : 1 Roller rockers
• 310 cam
• Vernier duplex timing gear
• Balanced & lightened internals
• 11.5 : 1 compression ratio
• Aldon electronic distributor & HT leads
• 130bhp at flywheel

Transmission:

• Straight cut, close ratio gears
• Large, (7 1/2”), rally clutch. (AP friction plate).
• Roller release bearing
• New master and slave cylinder

Rear axle/suspension:

• 3.9 : 1 diff
• Peter May comp half shafts
• Panhard rod
• De-cambered rear springs
• Spax adjustable rear shocks. (Upright mounted)
• Lifted front eye on spring hanger

Front suspension:

• 600lb coil springs, (lowered)
• 11/16” anti roll bar, solid mounts, rose jointed drop links
• Neg camber trunions
• Top king pin spacers
• Triangulated top arms
• Up-rated lever arm shocks

Brakes:

• Big front discs, (Peter May)
• Dual circuit
• Mintex pads
• STD rear drums & shoes

 

Body shell  (all solid, no rot):

• F/glass flip front
• F/glass doors
• F/glass rear panels, (Round wheel arch)
• F/glass boot lid
• F/glass, race weight hard top

Fuel & exhaust Systems:

• 48 DCOE carb
• Maniflow inlet manifold
• Tubular exhaust manifold, (3 into 1)
• Maniflow silencer boxes, etc. (Below 100 decibels)
• New facet silver top fuel pump
• New front to rear copper fuel line
• New non return valve on tank vent
• Aluminium foam filled tank in boot with catch bowl & drain pipe

Electrical system:

• High energy battery
• Race spec battery box on passenger side floor
• All instruments newly rewired, (all working)

Safety equipment:

• Plumbed in, correct spec extinguishers, (engine bay & interior)
• Latest spec harness
• Cobra race spec seat

Cooling:

• High capacity x flow radiator
• New 13 row oil cooler
• STD water pump

Wheels & tyres:

• 5 off  6 x 13 minilites with Avon slicks
• 4 off  6 x 13 weller motor sport with Avon wets

 All of this equates to almost 250bhp per ton, and 0 – 60mph in under 5 secs. … Very primitive and crude. Lots of fun!   I will be in the most modified group, (group 4 racers), in the Luffield series, and my target times will be ultra tough.  I probably won`t get near them, but I`II enjoy trying!

Still above ground!

I guess anyone following this blog will have thought something serious has happened to me. … Well I`m still above ground and carrying on.

 

For two or three months now I seem to have done lots and lots of small jobs that are not visible when you look at the car but are an important part of the project. (Fellting and fitting brake linkages, sorting the pedal arrangement so that they can be operated by my size 10`s and don`t foul the bodywork, etc, etc). …. I have spent a lot of time working out how to best fit floorboards, footboard, (around the pedals), brakets to support boards, etc. …. Always being aware that there should be a fireproof barrier between the engine compartment and the driver.

 

The boards are half inch marine ply covered with 20 gauge aluminium sheet around the bulkhead area. I am undecided whether or not to aluminium cover all of the floorboards. (Many old cars just have ply, painted or varnished against  the elements).

 

I have also been sorting out carbs and inlet manifold.  I have a pair of one and a quarter inch SU`s, but for the moment have fitted a large single SU on a manifold constructed by the previous owner.  …. I know in the MG sprint/hillclimb series many drivers prefer a single large SU rather than twin SU`s, and they work very well.  Anyway, the single SU will serve to get the car running and sorted.

 

I will try to blog more regularly now. … I have started cutting aluminium panels ready for shaping and fitting.  More of that later.

 

May part with some of my projects/parts

Since starting this blog I have had many emails enquiring about spares, etc. … At the same time I have realized just how much work and comittment is needed just to get one project completed to a good standard. … This has in turn caused me to evaluate what I`ve got around me with a view to rationalising the collection.

 

As a result of this pondering I have advertised a 1933 Monaco that was “waiting in the wings” for my attention. … I had thoughts of  building a Brooklands replica at some future date.  … Anyway, the advertisment reads as follows:-

Get Finance QuoteGet Insurance QuoteGet Breakdown CoverGet Car Data ChecksShipping & Transportation

1933 Riley Nine Monaco For Sale		£9,750 ono (approx. €10,741 or $14,540)
1933 Riley 9 Monaco. Good mechanical condition, patinated body and interior. Could be MOT`d and used as it is. Plenty of room for improvement to body, trim, etc. … I bought this car with the intention of using it as a basis for a Brooklands replica, but have had a change of plan. A strong running engine, rebuilt 5000 miles ago, with twin SU`s and reprofiled cams, (twin exhaust profiles). Gearbox, axles, brakes and wheels all good. (Rebuilt powder coated wheels). … Body is fairly scruffy but has had some recent new timbers and all doors close as they should without sagging. …. Lovely Rotax head & sidelamps in great condition. This car was taxed & MOT`d in 2008. A former owner was an official of the Riley Register.  I may also part with a fully rebuilt 12/4 engine and pre select gearbox.  However, I would be looking for about £6,500 for this. …… Alternatively a shortened 9 chassis with rebuilt magneto engine and silent third gearbox.  Chassis restored and painted, torque tube shortened, etc. Also about £6,500   I hope to post something soon about the continuing work on the Riley special.

getting on with the riley

In the early planning stages of this project I decided that I wanted a tubular, tuned, competition exhaust system, but didn`t want the pipes protruding through the bonnet sides and running down the outside of the car. … It looks wonderfully evocative and “of the period” but represents danger to youngsters tempted to touch the shiny bits!

 

A good tuned exhaust system makes a huge difference to the way the car “breaths” and gives a very worthwhile improvement in performance. … Particularly when matched to a good pair of SU carbs and cams with hotter than standard profiles.

 

The manifold is a beatifully made, 4 into 2, into 1 system that curves downwards  quickly enough to sit inside the bonnet. … I got it from a craftsman well known for his skills, but also well known for having a very long waiting list of customers.  I ordered it early in proceedings so as not to be waiting when everything else was done.  Expensive but worth the wait! … I also have had made some special stainless steel manifold nuts. These are 5/16″ BSF threads, but with 1/4 bsf spanner flats to enable fitting into the tight space next to the tubes of the manifold.  They are also much longer than standard nuts.  And new gaskets, of course.

 

You will see from the photos I have also coated the bodyframe with black, oil based paint to prevent the timbers absorbing moisture. … I notice a lot of vintage car bodyframes are left unprotected and wonder why?

 

Back to the Riley, (at last).

For the last week or so I have managed to get back to working on the Riley.  I have been concentrating on getting the basic body frame finished so that I can commence with making and fitting the aluminium panels. …. I decided a few months back that I would go for a period style of body with a slab tank and spare wheel at the back, rather than the “Bugatti style” boat tail that the Riley Ulster imps carried.  Lovely as they look I feel that a lot of chassis space is wasted with a tail that only carries the petrol tank with no room for luggage, side screens, tools, etc.  The slab tank rear has enabled me to create a space behind the seats for such items.

 

The body is made up of high grade marine ply and a few ash timbers.  The ply has immense strength, is water resistant, and easy to work.  The body has enough curvature to not look “slab sided”, but very few compound curves that would make the aluminium panels difficult to produce. … The pictures show the bodyframe shape but still needing lots of sanding down and finishing off.  I have remade the firewall bulkead that sits behind the engine, (not satisfied with the first attempt), and intend making a battery box to fix between this bulkhead and the scuttle bulkhead that carries the rear edge of the bonnet.

This shouldn`t be on a Riley blog!

This is another post about my MG Midget roadgoing competition car. ….. It is probably of no interest to Riley enthusiasts, so has no place on this site, but it helps me to keep a record of my MG Car Club exploits.  I promise to get back to the serious business of building a pre war Riley special very soon.

 

Loton park hillclimb, 5th April 2010 was the first event of the season in The MGCC Luffield speed championship.  My car is a standard roadgoing 1979 1500cc, (rubber bumper) midget. …. I had spent the last couple of weeks fitting a fresh engine and preparing the car for the series, (see previous articles).  As it turned out the work took much longer than anticipated and I didn`t finish untill the day before the competition! … This meant no time for a rolling road set-up, and very little time for final tuning and testing.  The ignition timing was done by “sight and sound” and the carbs not touched at all.  Just time for a 2 mile test drive around the block, check nothing had fallen off and all fluids were still where they should be.

 

Scrutineering was fine.  … Battery strapped down, extra springs on the carbs, no holes in the bulkhead firewall, fire extinguisher fitted, helmet, overalls, gloves all conforming to recent regulation updates. (etc, etc). … Loton park is a lovely hill.  About 1 mile long with left and right twists and turns, a long sweeping section that can be taken flat, it even has a downhill section!

 

My target time was 70 seconds.  My first practice run was a very conservative 82 seconds, limiting the revs to 5000 and watching the oil pressure gauge for signs of oil surge away from the pump pick-up. … Satisfied that all was well, my second run was 79 seconds, using 6000 rpm and carrying more speed into the corners. ….. The first timed run was 78 seconds.  I don`t have a time for my final run. (I will add it later).  A satisfactory start to the season considering there is more setting up to do on the car yet.

 

Scoring in the Luffield champs is a calculation of time achieved, measured against the target time.  Assuming my best time was 78 seconds and the target was 70 seconds, I guess I scored something just short of 90%. …. I`m satisfied with that for the moment. I hope to get some scores better than 95% later in the season. ….. The pictures show the car in the paddock and in the assembly area at the top of the hill, waiting to return to the paddock.

 

Midget engine transplant.

In the motor racing fraternity you will often hear someone say, “I dropped a new engine in the other day”, or some similar comment that makes the job sound reasonable and simple. … WELL IT ISN`T!!  …. It has taken me the best part of 8 days to complete an engine change in the midget, along with a few other competition mods that will please the scrutineers! 

 

I started by removing all auxillary items that either, attach the engine to the chassis, add weight, or are liable to get damaged as the engine is lifted out. … Starter, alternator, carbs, exhaust, fan, earth lead, throttle cable, choke cable, various wiring connections, distributor, cap, leads, etc, etc. … Then removed radiator and all hoses, plus expansion tank. Drained the oil and water, of course. … I also removed front bumper, grill and various other front end components. (Partly to facilitate fitting an oil cooler while the engine was out). … I had Bens assistance in drawing the engine forward untill clear of the gearbox and lifting out with the use of lifting tackle attached to the steel girder across the roof of my garage. … I dare say that this dosn`t sound too difficult but I have the skinned knuckles to prove otherwise!  Anyway, with some grunting, sweating and swearing, the old engine was on the garage floor.  …………… Incidently, I decided to leave the gearbox in place because I saw no sense in changing a gearbox I knew to be good, for one that was unproven.

 

With the engine out I took the opportunity to thoroughly clean the engine bay and waxoil all of those vunerable corners that trap dirt/damp and allow rust to develop. … I also located the best place for the new oil cooler, where it would get good airflow but not impede airflow to the radiator and engine bay. …. I know that dosn`t sound much but it consumed almost 2 full days!

 

Lifting the new engine in was not particularly arduous, but not simple either.  Getting everything at the right angle for the engine and gearbox to marry together was fiddly and time consuming, but eventually they slid into place and bellhousing bolts were fitted, (more knuckle damage, but Bens knuckles this time!). … Just the auxilleries to fit, along with cables to replace, wiring to reconnect, ignition timing to set, etc, etc, etc! .. I won`t go into detail but lots more time consumed and more knuckle damage.

 

A difficult part of this engine change was fitting the new 4 into 2  into 1 tubular exhaust manifold.  This manifold will make a big difference to performance. Perhaps the biggest single  improvement of all the changes being made.     ….. It appeared at first that the steering column would need removing whilst the manifold was wrestled into place.  But after much headscratching I discovered that removing the studs that hold carbs and manifold against the cylinder head allowed the manifold to be slid into place.  Replacing the studs and then fitting the nuts washers achieved satisfactory fitment. …. Just the alterations under the car to get the manifold to meet the long exhaust pipe running to the rear of the car left. (About another half day of work!).

 

An integral part of this engine change was to fit a oil pressure gauge to supplement the dashboard warning light. … Also to add a voltmeter, battery cut-out switch, and a starter button that will allow the engine to be turned without the ignition on. (To circulate oil after periods of standing which allow oil to drain from bearing surfaces resulting in rapid wear on start up).  … This along with the baffled sump that will prevent oil surge away from the oilpump pick-up will result in bearings staying good even on an engine driven hard in competition.

 

At the time of writing the engine is ready for start up, but hasn`t yet got the cooling system in place. … New kevlar competition hoses arriving tomorrow.  … I doubt if I will achieve a rolling road set up before the first hillclimb, which is Loton Park in a weeks time.  I will set the ignition timing as best I can get it and tune the carbs to the best of my ability and cross my fingers. …… Rolling road set up will be done later.

About the Author

Phil Smith is a vintage car enthusiast with many years experience of owning, restoring and using vintage, PVT and classic cars. A longstanding member of The Vintage Sports Car Club (VSCC), The Riley register and The MG Car Club. Makes he has owned include Alvis, Bentley, Lagonda, MG, Talbot and Riley, of course. Now retired, Phil satisfies his 'old motor urges' by competing in the MGCC Luffield Speed series in MG Midgets from the 60's and 70's. This blog will chart his return to vintage/PVT cars.

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E-mail: philsmith432[at]hotmail[dot]com

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